Skincare has gotten genuinely complicated. What used to be ‘wash your face, put on moisturiser’ has become an entire vocabulary of AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, niacinamide, vitamin C. Most of it is noise. But some of it actually works, and knowing which is which can save you a lot of money.

The non-negotiable foundation (three steps)

  • A gentle cleanser — strips dirt without stripping your skin’s moisture barrier. You shouldn’t feel tight after washing.
  • A moisturiser — seals in hydration. Even oily skin needs one.
  • SPF 30+ every morning — the most evidence-backed anti-ageing and skin-health step there is. Everything else is secondary.

What active ingredients actually do

For acne and oiliness: Salicylic acid (BHA) — goes inside the pore and clears excess oil. Niacinamide — reduces oil production, minimises pore appearance, calms redness. Zinc — anti-inflammatory, helps with acne and redness.

For texture and dullness: AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid) — exfoliate the surface, improve texture and brightness. Vitamin C — antioxidant, brightening. Use in the morning.

For ageing and firmness: Retinol/retinoids — the most evidence-backed ingredient for long-term skin health. Start slow (once a week) — your skin needs to adjust.

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Pro-tip

You don’t need to use everything. Pick one or two concerns, find the ingredients that address them, and give them at least eight weeks before judging results. Skin takes time.

What not to mix

  • Don’t mix: Retinol + AHAs/BHAs in the same application (both increase sensitivity).
  • Do use: Retinol and AHAs/BHAs on alternating nights.
  • Always follow active exfoliants and retinol with moisturiser and SPF the next morning.

The biggest skincare mistakes

  • Using too many new products at once — you won’t know what’s working or causing problems.
  • Skipping SPF because it feels annoying — the sun is undoing everything else you’re doing.
  • Expecting results in days — most ingredients take weeks to months.
  • Over-exfoliating — stripped skin is damaged skin.

Checklist

  • I have a cleanser, moisturiser, and SPF — used consistently
  • I’ve identified my one or two main skin concerns
  • I’m using the right active ingredient for that concern
  • I patch test new products before applying to my face
  • I’m giving each product at least eight weeks